Friday, March 11, 2011

Iguazu Falls

Another early start to get to the airport to catch the plane to Iguazu Falls.  Diego was to collect us at 6:00 am.  It was a pity as we missed out breakfast at the Marriot.  It was a pity as the coffee at the airport was pretty ordinary.

The flight to Iguazu Falls was uneventful.  The drive from Iguazu Falls airport to the Sheraton Hotel in the national park took about 20 minutes.  The contrast between Buenos Aries the built up city to Iguazu Falls National Park of rainforest was pretty big.  It was quite warm and humid here but luckily with minimal mosquitoes.

Meryl and I checked in and booked the boat ride to the base of the falls and the great jungle adventure.  Then we went looking for a light lunch.  After lunch we went for a walk to see parts of the falls.  The sound of the falling water was thunderous.  The falls was just spectacular.  Well worth a visit. Along the walk we saw several families of coutis. interesting plants and lots of birds.

We had to wait until 3:30 pm for our great jungle adventure and boat ride. The boat ride was wild and WET.  One of the best thrill rides - highly recommended.  The whole idea was to get absolutely drenched.  We were even provided with water proof bags for our cameras and other things we don't want wet.  The boat driver took the boat as close as he could to the bottom of the falls.

Two drown 'rats' after the boat ride
After a busy day and the wild boat ride, we decided to take it easy and have dinner at the hotel and enjoy the view of the falls as we ate dinner. Great food and company.  This is the life!

Friday, March 4, 2011

Lima - Buenos Aries

Another early start to the day as we had to be at the airport to catch our flight to Buenos Aries. The drive to Lima airport was quite fast as there was hardly any traffic on the road until closer to the airport. However once at the airport, there were tonnes of people. Poor Angie came to pick us up and told us that she was up until midnight collecting another lot of tourist. She must have had about 3 hours sleep. This was suppose to be her part-time job as she is still at uni. She had to leave us waiting at our queue as she had another lot of arrivals to meet. Given that we are now experts with the ins and outs of Lima airport, we were quite at ease to wait in the queue for our turn and then proceed to the next queue and so forth. (Note: For next trip – count the number of queues required to leave a place and time on queue).

Bye bye Peru and hello Argentina.

The flight over to Buenos Aries was okay. Diego met us at the airport as arranged. The drive to our hotel was pleasant. Buenos Aries' infrastructure is certainly much more extensive than what we saw in Lima. As we headed towards the city centre we saw wide tree-lined avenues, lots of nicely laid out parks, apartments, office buildings,many monuments and beautiful old buildings. What a change from the narrow cobbled stone streets in Cuzco and Puno and no more indian looking people around and craft vendors. Buenos Aries is just another big city.

After checking into our hotel (Plaza Marriott - Very nice big soft beds with soft pillows. Yes, luxury) we decided that we need to look for a place for dinner later on. We walked done Florida (Diego told us that we needed to watch our bags as this is the tourist street and there were pick pockets and secondly the locals don't shop here but at Santa Fe). There were lots of shops selling leather goods and cashmere clothing. Prices may be slightly lower than home but did appear to be that much lower to compensate for the trouble of having to cater the thing back. Along the way there were shop sales assistants asking passer-bys to go in for a browse, people selling various tours (eg. City tours, tango shows, etc), and sadly some beggars. While Cuzco and Puno were smaller and less affluent, there were hardly any beggars. The people there would try to sell something even if it was little packets of lollies. There were a few people sleeping on the streets.


We found several Irish and English pubs and popped into Jamieson's for a beer and snack. The calamari snack was delicious. If the music was not so loud we might had considered staying for dinner but alas it was too much. In our wanderings we ran into a restaurant and bar called Empire Thai. Why not eat Thai food in Buenos Aries. The place is owned and ran by yet another American 'refugee' named Kevin. We never really found out how he learnt to cook Thai food but he explained that the curry paste and various flavourings were prepared from scratch and not from jars. He told us that he was horrified to hear that even the Thai embassy chef used curry paste from jars. Here is Kevin's story:
  • was a CPA that came to work at a branch of an American bank in BA
  • bank got bought by HSBC
  • got paid out and decided to stay in BA
  • has 2 poodles
  • has a friend (long term unwanted guest) camped in his lounge room for 18 months (puts a new meaning to couch surfing)
When asked if he was happy, he got all a bit strange and walked away. Anyway we came back later for another chat. Kevin told us about the history of the Plaza Hotel and the rich and famous that lived during the glory days of BA. To be fair, the pad thai and beef rice we ordered were very nice but it did seemed a little odd to be eating Thai food in BA. The daiquiris we drank were nice as well.

So far based on a very sample, the American 'refugees' we met appear to have very colourful stories to tell. 

Wednesday, March 2, 2011

Puno to Lima via Juliaca

After breakfast we went for a walk to the local market. The market was divided into different sections – fruits, vegetables, chicken, meats and fish. At the meat section there were 2 dogs sitting there looking wishfully at the meat stalls. Meryl decided she had to buy some meat to feed the dogs. When she started feeding one of the dogs near a stall, a very angry stall owner waved her very sharp looking cleaver at us. Probably telling us off for feeding the dogs so near the meat stalls. A local man explained to us that if they are fed near the stalls, the dogs could be mistaken that the meat for sale was freely available to them. So we promptly walked outside the market and gave one of the dogs the rest of the meat.


Then we just took a stroll down towards the jetty. Along the way we saw people going about their daily lives. We stumbled upon a street market and sperate stall holders setting their make-shift stalls. Majority of the stalls were run by Indian ladies. The stalls mainly sold household goods, clothes, school uniforms and shoes. The clothes on sale were targeted for the taste of their local clientele in other words very brightly coloured and glitzy clothes and aprons for broad ladies. There were also very brightly coloured costume jewellery. There were also a few stalls selling traditional medicinal herbs and dried llama foetuses used for offering (we think). I took a photo of some dried herds and got told off by the stall owner.


We saw a very innovative way for hoisting a heavy piece of equipment up to the next level at a construction site. Somehow we do not think that there are any occupational health rules around here.


Romulo came to pick us up at 11::00 am as arranged. The drive to Juliaca took about 45 minutes. Juliaca still looked rather shabby. Romulo also said that Juliaca is a rough city. He told us about how a robber was caught and instead of handing the robber to the police, the robber was simply tied up on a light post and set alight. There was another incident where a large bus accidentally shunted a small van with 7 people in a river. The angry locals simply set the bus alight (minus the driver and passengers). Basically the police and law in the area is corrupt and ineffective.

We had a bit of scare at the airport when we tried to check-in for the flight to Lima. The LAN staff could not find our e-ticket on the system. She asked for our boarding pass from our previous trip. We had to jump across the barrier to try and find the old boarding pass. Alas, they were no where to be seen. The thought of being stuck in Juliaca was just terrifying. Talk about nervous energy and a touch of desperation, with that we pulled out every bit of paper and asked if that was what she needed. We must have been good sometime or rather in the past because after more searching in the system, she found our e-bookings. Hallelujah!

Once we checked in, we needed a cup of coffee. It was one of the most expensive and worst tasting coffee in Peru. It was 7 sol per Styrofoam cup. Even a local who stood behind me exclaimed 'muy caro'. The lady in the stall said that it was because the coffee was with milk. While waiting for our flight, we got talking to an Australian lady. She told us that her husband was suffering from altitude sickness so they had to change their plans and fly back to Lima which is at sea level. She was telling Meryl about their Antartica trip and they had used Chimu Adventures as their travel agent. She was happy with the Antartica cruise. We agreed that the tour staff and guides we had met were all excellent.

At Lima Airport we were met by Angie. The temperature at Lima was quite a lot higher and warmer than in Puno. The traffic was quite heavy (as usual) but it did flow. We were back at Casa Andina again. After putting our bags in our room, we went for a walk in search of more souvenirs and food.
We went to a fast food Chinese stall called the China Wok. Surprisingly the fried rice was rather tasty. Now, it could be we were craving for something different other than fried potatoes. Nonetheless it was totally acceptable. After filling our stomachs we went to look at the inside of the cathedral. It looked like they were dressing it up for a wedding. There were a lot of stray cats being fed outside the cathedral. Children were patting the cats. People here appear to be rather kind to stray animals. Nobody seemed too worried about catching things from the cats.

Meryl was getting really edgy as she had not had a pisco sour. We cruise through the craft market in the park we first met up with a Japanese couple who were desperate to talk Japanese to someone, such as me. They had to content with half English and a few words of Spanish. They were here to spread the Word. A few steps along we ran into two American refugees. One was a retired history teach from Maine. He started to talk about the recent NZ earthquake. He said that Australia would be there to help and asked if we knew the words to a WW1 song about 'Australia will be there' and proceeded to sing the song. Next we started talking to another American from Houston, Texas. He was a retired operations plant manager for some hydro electric company (only guessing). He asked if he had dinner, we said yes but we were going in search of a pisco sour. He insisted on taking us to his favourite haunt for a drink. The pisco sour there was very nice and a very big glass. He was retired and told us that it was much easier to live on his pension here than in the US. He did not like the cold. However he did not appear to speak a lot of spanish. Poor guy was probably desperate for a conversation in English and was prepared to buy us pisco sour just for a chat. Here are some highlights of the chat:
  • About himself
    • divorced (no big surprise)
    • retired (took a package) and would never want to work again
    • still talks to one child but other child has said on their facebook that he is dead
    • hates the cold and snow, hence Lima. Added bonus it is cheaper to live in Lima than the US
    • still renting while considering his options
  • property prices in Miraflores has sky rocketed over last 6 years
  • can rent a great fully furnished apartment for $1000 USD a month (he gave us a card for a great contact)

After the drink we went off in search of more souvenirs and in our merry and light-headed state managed to buy a few more things. Perhaps going shopping after pisco sour made things looked more attractive.

Packed up of stuff and set the alarm for 4:00 am all ready for the next morning.